Ressource pédagogique : Dr Magdalena Malinowska - Grape cane extracts a natural ingredients with cosmetic activities

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Modern and effective skin care formulations based on a natural ingredients has become the key issue in cosmetic industry. It is well known, that grapes are a rich source of many valuable compounds like E-resveratrol, which exhibits several biological activities for health and beauty. Wine production process generates various biomolecule-rich by-products including pomace, leaves or canes. It creates an opportunity to the exploitation of these natural resources of metabolites in cosmetic formulations. In our studies, we focused on the polyphenolic profiles of unique grape varieties, cultivated in the Loire Valley in France, which over the past decades became extremely rare. The metabolomic screening of the tested grape extracts involved the analysis and data integration of all the metabolites, based on high-throughput, multivariate data. Basing on the results obtained, we evaluated the cosmetic potential of the selected grape varieties as the multifunctional rejuvenating agents. These sources of grape metabolites exhibit various biological activities including skin whitening potential, strong antioxidant activity and the delaying of cellular senescence. The confirmed biological effect was additionally supplemented with the evaluation of the bioavailability and skin permeability of the extracts key metabolites. Importantly, the results allowed for the initiation of in vitro cell cultures of the selected rare grape varieties for their future utilisation in innovative skin care formulations.  

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